Getting a bunny?
Keep it in the house instead of outside if you can. Why?
- House rabbits tend to live longer than those that are confined in hutches outside. On average, a house rabbit's lifespan is double those that live outside.
- They can be litter trained and be a part of the family instead of being forgotten outside in the hutch.
- Living indoors, they are protected from predators and extreme weather conditions.
- You can enjoy watching funny bunny antics in the house and have him/her follow you everywhere!
Safe Confinement
Having a house rabbit doesn't mean letting him run free range of the house 24/7 (unless you have complete confidence that he/she will not destroy your furniture and the house is bunny-proof). It is still a good idea to have a secure cage, playpen, hutch or a large dog crate for your bunny to own. This will help prevent any territorial problems in the future and is his/her "safe place".
It needs to have enough room for the litter tray, food/drink bowl and perhaps a mini hideaway (this can be a cardboard box with a hole in it). I have seen many people build an indoor enclosure out of NIC (Neat Idea Cubes) connected with cable ties. It is a very economical way if you manage to find these cubes.
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| Example of a rabbit accommodation using NIC cubes |
I live in Adelaide and could not find them anywhere. So I opted for a playpen style. My first playpen was bought over ebay and it was some kind of heavy metal.
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| Peanut's old metal playpen |
However, with my bedroom directly below, I could always hear him smashing the cage sides throughout the night. So I modified a wooden playpen which was a little bit bigger and much softer on the floor.
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| Peanut's new wooden playpen |
I had to insert extra wooden bars as the gaps were too large before (the playpen was meant for toddlers). I was afraid he would bite on the wood but so far, he hasn't developed a fetish for wood yet. He would only bite on the wooden bars if he sees me and wants to get out. However, I always let him out when I'm at home anyway. The door is secured by a plush carrot I made. It has velcro sewed on the carrot and superglued to the playpen. The door of the play pen may only be opened by swinging it inside, and so I never have the problem of him jumping on the door and accidentally swinging it open.
Some people like to place some flooring like a mat or carpet but I'm too lazy to wash this every time. Instead, I just sweep up his scattered poo pellets and hay every few days. Then do a more thorough cage clean once a fortnight by wiping down on the floor with a wet cloth.
When cleaning your bunny's playpen/hutch/safe-house, he/she may not like you intruding on his/her territory and may annoy you a bit. I usually get my boyfriend to distract him while I do this. Once, he did urinate on the corner of the cage while I was cleaning it. I believe he was trying to establish that I was intruding on his territory that time. So be warned.
Bunny Proofing
Providing a safe-house for your bunny is only the first part. If you want your bunny to have a free range of the house in future (after being litter trained of course), then you will need to ensure that the house is bunny proofed. Like child-proofing a house, you need to ensure that wires are out of reach or protected by extra rubber tubing. Rabbits love wires! I believe that they associate wires with the roots of trees and are trying to bite them out of the way. Or maybe they just love to try and electrocute themselves. Either way, protect your wires with those spiral cable wraps. I've tried tabasco sauce but Peanut seemed to love it. Luckily, my rabbit hasn't developed a need to bite any of my wooden furniture yet but if you have that problem, I suggest bitter apple spray, sticky double tape (they don't like their whiskers to get caught on the adhesive), vinegar or aluminium foil. Not every bunny is the same, so even if my Peanut likes chilli oil, maybe yours may not like it.
Litter Training
Surprisingly, Peanut was a lot easier to litter train than I had thought. It only took him around 3 days and he has only had around 4 or 5 accidents up to date. Mostly on the couch. I highly recommend not placing your bunny on the couch or anything soft for the first few months. Peanut had a tendency to pee when he got too comfortable. He would wriggle in between my boyfriend and me, shoot his tail up and do his wet business.
To litter train, place your bunny in his/her playpen/hutch with the litter tray filled with hay. They like to pee/poo/eat all in the same spot. If he or she pees/poos in another spot in the cage, simply move the litter tray there. It seems he/she has allocated that spot as his/her urinal. Better to accommodate the determined bunny at this time. Your bunny will eventually learn the use of a litter tray. That easy!
During this stage, be patient and don't overwhelm your bunny by giving him/her free range of the house yet. Start your bunny in a small area, and gradually increase the roaming area. If your bunny does make an accident, quickly pick him/her up and place him/her in the litter tray. Then clean the mess with vinegar so that he/she does not pee there again. I would place a box on that spot for the next few days to block that area from your bunny as an extra measure.
What litter should I use?
I highly recommend using recycled newspaper pellets as they are not harmful to your bunny and are highly absorbent. I like to use 'Breeder's Choice'. Do not use clumping clay or crystal kitty litters. I have heard that pine and cedar sawdust may be harmful to rabbits. Better be safe than sorry and buy the recycled newspaper pellets.
It is probably easier to clean if you line the litter tray with newspaper. Remember to top it off with hay!
Rabbit Language
Rabbits have a hard way of communicating with us as they don't often make sounds. To understand your rabbit, you have to learn through his/her actions and body language.
If your rabbit is scared, he/she will run to a safe spot and freeze in a rigid sitting hunched position. Your bunny will only make a small whining/crying noise if he/she is really scared. Comfort your bunny and don't make too much sudden movements. My Peanut is afraid when I'm cooking food (still haven't worked out if it is the smell of oil or the sound of the oil crackling that scares him) and cries/whines sometimes when I have to carry him down the stairs two floors down to the garage on very hot days.
Your rabbit may jump up in the air and flick his ears mid air. It's called a binky. This is a sign of a happy bunny and he/she is currently feeling a little "high". He/she may look a little retarded when doing this, but it's perfectly normal. They may sometimes do this while running and not necessarily jump up in the air.
When your rabbit is circling you, he or she is absolutely in love with you! Sometimes Peanut would circle me and if I don't pat his head, he would nip my ankles. Never ignore a bunny demanding your attention.
Your rabbit may softy grind his teeth when you pat his/her head. This is a sign of contentment and he/she is enjoying your pats. Sometimes my rabbit lifts his chin up to get a better head rub. This type of grinding is different to the hard grinding which signifies your bunny is in pain.
If you have insulted your bunny, he/she will hop away from you and flick his/her back paw while doing so. To get back in your bunny's good books, give it some food or just leave it alone for awhile until he/she forgets. Peanut will usually flick his paw at me after I carry him. He really does not like to be lifted off the ground.
Sometimes if you are in the rabbit's way, he/she will nudge you, and if you don't move, it will give you a nip. Peanut has successfully nipped my boyfriend's rear end before. Or if you bunny just wants your attention or a pat, he/she will nudge you too. It's trying to say "Hey, look at me! I want a pat!".
When your rabbit is really tired and feeling completely secure, he would flop down on the floor looking quite dead.
Rabbits and the Weather
Rabbits are extremely sensitive to temperature. In Australia, they are most prone to overheating during the summers. When a rabbit is feeling too hot, his/her nose will rapidly wriggle and if it is wet, then your rabbit needs to be placed in a cooler place. To prevent overheating, give the rabbit a piece of tile to lie on and a frozen bottle of water.
On days over 30 degrees, I place my bunny in the garage where it is much cooler than the top floor of my townhouse.
Rabbits and Children
I strongly suggest supervising your child with a rabbit for the first couple of days until you feel confident that your child will not mishandle the bunny. Generally, rabbits are not the ideal pets for children as most rabbits hate being lifted off the ground and will claw their way back down. Unless of course, your bunny has been well handled and your children learn the proper way of picking up the rabbit. It is also important to teach the child how to respect the rabbit and his/her territory. It's best not to enter the bunny's playpen or hutch unnecessarily (unless you have to clean it or put some food/water inside).
Remember that rabbits have relatively soft bones, and stress easily. So if the rabbit is mishandled or picked up incorrectly, the rabbit may kick so hard injuring the bones in the process.
So how do I pick up a rabbit?
Always remember to never leave the back paws dangling. Slip one hand under the front legs while using the other hand to cup his/her bottom and scoop the rabbit up close to your chest.
